As Michelle and I cycled towards the highest point on the Isle of Lismore, I couldn’t help thinking about how serendipity had enhanced our enjoyment of travelling to Scotland. When we carefully planned our three-week trip to Iceland, Scotland, and England this spring, we thought Edinburgh would be the most exciting destination. Indeed, it was an amazingly beautiful city, with its iconic castle perched high above the city. Iceland was also amazing, with spectacular waterfalls and glacial-covered mountains, as was the Scottish Highlands, with its craggy mountains, crystal clear mountain streams, and scenic glens. But in the end, it was the destination that was researched the least that we enjoyed the most: the Hebrides Islands, near Oban on Scotland’s west coast.
The trip we planned began in Reykjavík and then continued on to Scotland, including Glasgow, Oban, Fort William, Inverness, and Edinburgh, then down to Northern England to visit Durham, and finally York. Among these destinations, I was very excited about travelling to Fort William and climbing Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the Scottish Highlands. But many travellers recommended Oban as a must-visit destination, so we added it to our itinerary before our stop in Fort William. Michelle booked two nights at the Glenburnie House in Oban but couldn’t find a room available on the weekend for our stop in Fort William. Fortunately, there was one room available for four days at Glenburnie House, so we quickly changed our reservation. Initially, Michelle and I were not fond of the idea of staying in Oban for four nights, but we eventually saw it as a chance to relax after a week of intensive travelling.
During our train journey from Glasgow to Oban, Michelle asked me about the attractions in Oban. All I recalled was that the area is renowned for its whiskey and seafood and that there are ferry services to the Hebrides Islands. Upon realizing our lack of planning, we headed to the tourist information centre as soon as we arrived in Oban to seek advice on how to make the most of our time there.
We then walked to the outskirts of Oban, along the oceanfront promenade, to our accommodation at the Glenburnie House. We were worried about choosing accommodation so far from the town centre, but the guest house had excellent reviews on TripAdvisor. In the end, what truly sold us on Glenburnie House was the “oh so polite” yet cutting response the owner had given to a negative review. It left both Michelle and me in stitches, and we knew that this was the place to stay.
This was not the best way to pick accommodation, but when Graeme, the owner, showed us to our room, our mouths dropped. The room ended up being the best of our trip. It was a spacious third-floor room, featuring a king-sized bed and a sitting area with a view of Oban Bay. There was also a fridge, a microwave oven, and cutlery to prepare our own meals. No need to sit in crowded, noisy restaurants — we had the best table right in our room.
The next morning, using the advice from the visitor centre, we set out on rented bikes to catch the ferry to the Isle of Lismore. The weather was perfect, with clear blue skies and no showers in the forecast. It was a quick bike ride to the ferry terminal, where we purchased a ticket for the 75-minute journey to the Isle of Lismore. Once on the ferry, we tied down our bikes and sat at the top, admiring the view of Oban until the ocean spray forced us below to the enclosed passenger area.
The Isle of Lismore is a peaceful island that is sparsely populated, with very little traffic, making it ideal for cycling. As Michelle and I cycled on a narrow road that wound its way towards the northern tip of the island, we enjoyed the stunning landscape. At every turn, I couldn’t resist stopping to take pictures, making Michelle impatient. Alongside the road were century-old farmhouses surrounded by lush green pastures filled with grazing sheep, all separated by ancient stone fences. We also saw the ruins of an ancient fortress that once protected Scotland against foreign invaders. When we reached the island’s highest point, we had a breathtaking view of the Scottish countryside against the choppy waters of Loch Linnhe.
Michelle and I would have loved to cycle to the southern end of the island, but we couldn’t risk missing the late afternoon ferry back to Oban. Instead, we ended our excursion by stopping at a cafe and enjoying homemade cauliflower soup with a sandwich. Later that evening, we sat and watched the sunset over Oban Bay, while I enjoyed twelve-year-old Tobermory Scotch. There couldn’t have been a more perfect way to conclude our cycling adventure in Scotland.
The next morning, we put on our hiking boots and set off to catch a passenger ferry across the bay to explore the Isle of Kerrera. Unfortunately, we had made the mistake of returning our bikes and it was a 5-kilometre hike to reach the ferry. To make matters worse, it was a foggy day with occasional showers, but we were undeterred—we didn’t travel all the way to Scotland to hang out in our room. Unbelievably, that was the only rainy day we experienced during our three-week trip.
Upon arriving at Kerrera, we encountered an uphill climb on a paved road that led us to the trailhead, marked by a gate opening into a farmer’s field. Michelle and I were reluctant to open the gate, thinking we were trespassing, but in Scotland, there’s an ancient tradition that allows hiking through private land in the countryside. The Scottish government even made it a law in 2003, along with rules the public must follow when hiking on private land. To prevent sheep from escaping, we made sure the gate was securely shut before beginning our hike.
We had low expectations of the hike because of the weather, but the scenery surpassed our expectations. The trail wound its way through the rugged hills, adorned with vibrant yellow Gorse shrubs. As we continued along the trail, the rolling fog clung to the landscape, teasing us with glimpses of the Scottish coastline. We also encountered adorable lambs who curiously observed us and greeted us with their baas. Like Lismore, there were quaint farmhouses and ancient fences built with stones; it felt like travelling back in time because other than a single power line, nothing had changed in centuries. By now Michelle had succumbed to my constant picture-taking, and no longer objected when I asked her to pose with a scenic view in the background.
Thanks to taking a wrong turn and having to backtrack during our hike, by the time Michelle and I reached the location to catch the ferry back to Oban, we had already hiked close to 15 kilometres. Needless to say, we weren’t thrilled about trekking another 5 kilometres back to our room. Fortunately, while waiting for the ferry, we met two Englishmen who had driven to Oban for some hiking. and when they spotted us walking along the road towards Oban, they offered us a ride. What a relief! After two long days of physical activity, every step was painful.
On our last day in Oban, Michelle and I had a relaxing morning, watching ships sail past our window as we ate our breakfast. We then did some souvenir shopping, ate lunch at a restaurant that’s famous for its fish and chips, and finished the day by visiting McCaig’s Tower for a panoramic view of Oban.
Our four-day stay in Oban unexpectedly turned out to be the highlight of our trip. That evening, while packing, I felt a tinge of sadness, knowing that it was unlikely I would ever return to Oban and explore the rest of the Hebrides Islands—there are just too many other amazing destinations waiting to be explored.
One Last Kick 